Поход на Чатырдаг

В Крыму есть целая куча довольно легкопроходимых, но при этом шибко интересных пешеходных горных маршрутов, а самым популярным из них является, пожалуй, поход на Чатырдаг.

Верхнее плато Чатырдага.
Верхнее плато Чатырдага

Чатырдаг — один из самых высоких и «заметных» горных массивов Крыма. Его верхнее плато весьма похоже на палатку или же стол, посему, крымские татары нарекли его Шатёр-Гора, то бишь, Чатыр-Даг, а греки называли его Трапезус, по-нашенски стол. Самая высокая точка — гора Эклизи-Бурун (Церковный Мыс), высота 1527 метров, что всего-то на 18 метров ниже самой высокой точки Крыма — горы Роман Кош. О происхождении названия Эклизи-Бурун я поведаю в другой раз.

Я сказал, что Чатырдаг — «заметный» и не просто так. Дело в том, что он хорошо виден с многих крымских гор. Да и не только гор, его можно наблюдать и из окна подъезжающего к Симферополю поезда, если посмотреть в левое окно, по ходу движения. Некоторые даже утверждают, что в ясную погоду можно разглядеть верхнее плато из самого Перекопа, хотя я и не видел.

И так, собственно путешествие. Сразу скажу, что мы не спортсмены и не ставим целью пройти тысячу миллионов километров за день (хотя случалось и нечто подобное), потому этот однодневный поход у нас разбавился ночевкой. Идея была такова: пойти от села Перевального, подняться на нижнее плато, посмотреть по дороге пещеры, где-то там же заночевать, а на следующий день подняться на верхнее плато и Эклизи-Бурун, погулять там и спуститься к Ангарскому перевалу, откуда и уехать восвояси.

Карта маршрута.
Маршрут

Неспеша поднявшись на нижнее плато, мы отправились искать родник. Один из них находится недалеко от бывшей военной части, а ныне турприюта. Если идти по нашему маршруту, приют легко увидеть — это несколько зданий, обнесённых забором, единственные на всю округу. Чуток не доходя до него, возле тропы и будет источник, его можно засечь по странной бетонной конструкции и железяке, торчащей рядом. Кстати, вдоль троп всех основных маршрутов на Чатырдаге (да и во многих других местах) выложены туры — кучи камней около полуметра высотой. Гуляючи по горам летом, становится не совсем понятно, зачем это всё, зато зимой, когда троп не видно под снегом эти туры весьма выручают, указывая направление.

Вид на Перевальное. Начало подъема.
Вид на Перевальное. Начало подъема.

После «водных процедур» двинули искать пещеры, их, как известно, на Чатырдаге туева хуча целое сонмище. Карстовая порода, из которой, состоит гора, весьма способствует образованию полостей под действием воды. Всё нижнее плато похоже на эдакий полигон — оно сплошь изрыто небольшими кратерами. На самом же деле это, т. н. карстовые воронки. Из-за огромных подземных пустот верхний слой почвы проседает, образуя эти самые воронки. Раньше говорили, что на Чатырдаге около двухсот пещер, но недавно выяснилось, что их чуть ли не 500. Самые известные — Мраморная и Эмине-Баир-Хосар, они оборудованы под цивильное посещение.

Такие деревья живут в карстовых воронках.
Чатырдаговы деревья

Мы же шли немного в стороне от главных подземных достопримечательностей, так что первой нам по дороге попалась пещера Бездонная. Это вертикальная дыра в земле, глубиной около 195 метров. На дне даже в самую-самую летнюю жару лежит до 15 метров снега. Спуститься туда можно только со снаряжением, потому мы только пофоткали, поудивлялись и отправились дальше.

Стремновато.
Пещера Бездонная
Пещера Бездонная

Еще одной пещерой, которую мы посмотрели, была Суук-Коба (Холодная Пещера по-русски). Недалеко от неё мы и заночевали. Здесь уже можно легко зайти, благо вход широкий, почти горизонтальный, под небольшим наклоном, как и вся пещера. Первый зал весьма просторный, высота, на глаз, метров 20, ширина — 30. Через какое-то время зал сужается и переходит в узкий коридор. Туда мы не пошли, ибо фонари были китайские, не внушающие доверия. Тут же, перед входом в коридор, в правой стене есть небольшая ниша, если пролезть по ней буквально пару метров, можно обнаружить источник с питьевой водой, что не может не радовать. Еще в пещере есть псевдонаскальные рисунки, как утверждают интернеты, нарисованы они в 90-х для съемок какого-то фильма. Так же здесь хорошо видны следы пребывания цивилизованного человека — куча отбитой породы, сталактитов и т. п., ну, вы понимаете, «на память». Убивать…

Интерьеры Суук-Кобы.
Интерьеры Суук-Кобы
Интерьеры Суук-Кобы
Интерьеры Суук-Кобы

Псевдонаскальная живопись.
Наскальная живопись. Суук-Коба.

Следуя далее по маршруту мы выдвинулись к главной нашей цели — вершине Эклизи-Бурун. Это весьма интересный подъем. Во-первых, каждый раз, поворачиваясь назад, видишь совершенно новый пейзаж, всё меняется с каждым метром, а, во-вторых, буквально весь склон покрыт стелящимся по земле можжевельником. Целые гектары можжевелового ковра! Но на самой вершине еще интереснее, виды оттуда — не передать! И Алушта, и Демерджи, и Бабуган, и почти вся Внутренняя гряда, даже Севастопольская бухта, всё видать!

Мощь и красота! Вид на Алушту и Демерджи.
Алушта и Демерджи с Чатырдага

Пол-Крыма видать. Некоторые утверждают, что умудрялись разглядеть отсюдова даже Новый Свет и Меганом.
И еще пол-Крыма с другого ракурса

Демерджи с Долиной Привидений.
Демерджи с Эклизи-Бурун

Вид на Бабуган.
Вид с Эклизи-Бурун на Бабуган-яйлу

Вдоволь насмотревшись на всё это, отправились вниз, к Ангарскому перевалу, по дороге рассматривая Демерджи и Алушту. Еще по пути встретили какие-то каменные стены, правда так и не поняли, что же это такое.

Какая-то стенка.
Какая-то стенка

Это был один из немногих наших походов, который обошелся без какого-либо треша и стрёма. Всё цивильно и культурно, аж странно =)

Сейчас, к сожалению, с походами на Чатырдаг уже не всё так просто: с недавних пор нижнее плато объявили заповедником и запрещают ночевать, разводить костры и всё такое. У господ принимающих законы последнее время совсем тяжело с восприятием окружающей действительности, да и, судя по всему, с миропониманием вообще.

К слову сказать, наш поход вела широко известная в узких севастопольских кругах Таисия Кардакова — КМС по скалолазанию, крымонавт 80-го уровня, лютый ценитель Чатырдага и крайне веселая тётя. Без неё мы бы и половины интересностей не узнали, так что спасибо ей!

И еще бонус вдогонку.

Поймали вот такой закат. Солнце отражается в море где-то в районе бухты Ласпи.
Морской закат с Чатырдага

Рубрика: Походы. Метки: . Вы можете добавить постоянную ссылку в закладки.

Отзывов 50 на Поход на Чатырдаг

  1. Здорово! Очень красивая природа. Мы этим летом были проездом в Крыму и поднимались (по серпантину вверх и по канатной дороге вниз) на Аю-Даг. После прочтения Вашего поста самому захотелось повторить Ваш маршрут. Спасибо за интересный материал :-)

  2. Shedum пишет:

    Спасибо за отзыв!
    Да-да, на Чатырдаге интереснейше.
    Но канатка и серпантин не на Аю-Даге, а на Ай-Петри.

  3. dosp пишет:

    Привет!Очень интересует этот маршрут. Вопросы: сложность? наилучшее время года? карты? другая снаряга?
    спасибо

  4. Shedum пишет:

    Приветствую, dosp.

    Конкретно этот маршрут весьма простой. Спортсмены пробегают его вообще за день, мы в прогулочном темпе прошли за полтора. Идти можно в любое время года, лучше всего конечно весной или ранней осенью. Мы шли летом, в июле, так что было жарковато. Хотя некоторые ходят и зимой: основная тропа помечена турами, так что не заблудитесь. Ночевать можно в тур-приюте на нижнем плато, его видно издалека. Карта нашего маршрута есть в посте. Из другой снаряги не помешает фонарь, дабы спуститься в пещеру Суук-Коба за водой. Вроде всё.

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    это не какая-то стенка здесь 9-ю роту снимали

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