Поход Черная речка – перевал Бечку – Орлиный Залет. Часть 2

Продолжение статьи, первая часть тут.

На следующее утро мы не спеша собрались, осмотрелись и двинули дальше к реализации нашей задумки. Где-то через полчаса ходьбы вдоль Черной речки берег начал становиться всё более обрывистым, приходилось больше карабкаться, чем идти. Еще через полчаса мы перешли речку вброд (о чем я и говорил в первой части статьи), благо, правый берег как раз стал пологим у весьма притягательным.

Поход на Орлиный Залет. Вид с горы Бечку-Кая

Но и здесь через некоторое время удобная тропинка закончилась, и нам приходилось то подниматься на самый верх каньона, то спускаться к воде. Так мы и шли, пока каньон не кончился, а наша тусовка не оказались на дороге, ведущей от Ялтинской трассы вглубь Байдарской долины. Поскольку следующая наша ночевка должна была состояться в районе перевала Бечку (карта маршрута есть в первой части поста), мы решили пройтись по этой дороге до села Передовое и отметить свой прогресс местным мороженком, что и было сделано.

Стены Чернореченского каньона.
Поход на Орлиный Залет. Стены каньона

После небольшой передышки наше трио отправилось в сторону подъема на гору Бечку-Кая. Стоит сказать, что этот участок маршрута крайне неинтересный. Большую часть пути надо тупо шагать вверх по серпантину, где из-за деревьев не видно вообще ничего. Однако нам подфартило: по этой же дороге в гору поднимался лесник на автомобиле, и, завидев нас, остановился. Мы заподозрили, что сейчас он начнет требовать денег “за посещение заповедника”, но любезный хранитель леса оказался на высоте. Он предложил подвезти нас до самого перевала! «Сколько заплатите?», — говорит. Мы решили идти до конца: «А нисколько!», «Ладно, садитесь.» Так мы оказались на перевале уже в два часа дня, вместо ожидаемых 5-6.

Когда добрейший лесник уехал, мы припрятали рюкзаки и налегке полезли на гору Бечку-Кая, которая возвышается рядом. Гора эта весьма необычная. Со стороны она выглядит абсолютно уныло и не вызывает аж никакого интереса, но если подняться на вершину, с неё можно разглядеть чуть ли не половину Крыма. Отсюда прекрасно видно изнанку главной гряды Крымских гор, Байдарские ворота, Ильяс, Бойко, даже антенны на Бедене-Кыр (шары Ай-Петри) и Чатырдаг.

Виды с Бечку.

Бельбекская долина и гора Бойка вдалеке.
Поход на Орлиный Залет. Вид с горы Бечку-Кая

Байдарская долина и Чернореченское водохранилище.
Поход на Орлиный Залет. Вид с горы Бечку-Кая

Шары Ай-Петри.
Поход на Орлиный Залет. С Бечку видны шары Ай-Петри

Нагулявшись вдоволь, мы спустились, взяли наши шмотки и задумались, что же делать дальше. Изначально планировалось ночевать тут, но с другой стороны, у нас было еще полдня времени, так что мы решили двигать дальше в сторону Орлиного Залета. По началу нам то и дело открывались всевозможные замечательные виды на крымские горные ништяки, но где-то через час мы спустились в лес и просто шли. Шли долго, начало темнеть, но ни одного мало-мальски подходящего для стоянки места не было.

Когда мы уже основательно устали, то вышли на полянку, которая на карте называется т/с Ай-Димитрий. На самом деле, это никакая не т/с, а метеостанция, и ночевать тут тоже было не очень. Зато мы заметили радующую глаз табличку «т/с Чайный Домик, 5 км» и указатель на очередной подъем. Идти конечно было лень, но название нам понравилось, потому всё-таки решились.

Однако где-то на середине подъема далеко слева мы услышали недружелюбное утробное хрюканье. Все конечно сделали вид, что нам показалось и продолжили идти. Поднявшись наконец наверх (а это было явно больше пяти километров), мы поняли, что стоим на развилке и не знаем, куда нам надо, что времени 10 часов, а вокруг совершенно темно, потому что лес. Немного поспорив, решили идти налево.

Буквально через десять минут хрюканье повторилось, на этот раз намного громче и ближе. Хотя все неимоверно устали, наша скорость передвижения как минимум удвоилась. Еще через несколько минут хрюканье стало громким, постоянным, недовольным и массовым. Вот тогда-то мы и поняли, что совсем рядом шарится целое стадо кабанов. Дабы как-то их отпугнуть, мы начали орать, что есть дури и со всей силы колотить в пустые пластиковые бутылки. Это дало свой результат: мы услышали удаляющийся шум кучи бегущих живностей и треск поваленных деревьев. Доподлинно неизвестно, кто же всё-таки больше обосрался — мы или кабаны, зато установлено другое: никто из нас до этого так быстро не бегал после почти пятидесяти километров, пройденных с рюкзаками.

По инерции продолжая двигаться в темпе спортивной ходьбы, мы очень быстро оказались на огромной и весьма комфортно обустроенной турстоянке. Так мы и попали на Орлиный Залет. Каким-то чудом поставив палатку, мы тут же вырубились, а наш киборг-старшой даже сбегал за водой в пещеру Данильча-Коба, расположенную поблизости. Как ему это удалось, я до сих пор не понимаю.

Наш сосед.
Поход на Орлиный Залет. Наш сосед

Наутро мы насилу вылупились из палатки и пошли смотреть пейзажи. Отсюда открывается чудеснейший вид на гору Бойка, Бельбекскую долину и даже на начало Большого Каньона Крыма. Кроме того, здесь живет целое множество орлов, которые буквально десятками летают над долиной. Не зря же всё-таки гора свое название получила.

Гора Бойка на рассвете.
Поход на Орлиный Залет. Гора Бойка на рассвете

Вот почему он – Орлиный Залет.
Поход на Орлиный Залет. Орел

Однако несмотря на наш амбициозный план дойти до Лиски и кайф от первых двух дней, поход пришлось прекратить в силу непредусмотренных факторов. Полюбовавшись еще немного видами на Орлином Залете, мы спустились в село Соколиное и через Бахчисарай и Симферополь уехали матрасничать в Коктебель.

Бельбекская долина (слева), Бойка (посередине), Большой Каньон (справа).
Поход на Орлиный Залет. Панорама Бойки и Бельбекской долины

Рубрика: Походы. Метки: , , . Вы можете добавить постоянную ссылку в закладки.

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