Севастополь.

Давно хотел написать некий общий пост про Севастополь, ибо это, на мой взгляд, самый замечательный город не только в Крыму, но и вообще из всех, где мне случилось побывать. Однако, когда взялся, понял, что сказать о нем что-то «в общем» довольно проблематично, потому как описывать можно просто бесконечно. Отделываться же простыми фактами в стиле «основан тогда-то, назван потому-то» и т. д., когда говоришь про Севастополь, как-то даже неприлично, ибо, во-первых, это и так все знают из школьной истории, а во-вторых, такой информации в интернетах и без меня полно. Потому в этой статье поведаю сугубо о своих впечатлениях и наблюдениях.

Панорамка.

Итак, чем же, собственно, этот Севастополь замечателен? Ну, во-первых, наличием моря =) Но главное всё же то, что здесь всегда и везде ощущается, скажем так, дух города. Даже летом, в самый сезон, он не превращается в некий развлекательный центр, как это часто бывает, а вполне сохраняет свою «самость». Нету здесь дикого количества ублюдских кафешек на каждом шагу, а по центральной набережной не ходят толпы в купальниках, всё как-то цивилизованнее. Связано это конечно с тем, что Севастополь, в первую очередь, портовый город и военно-морская база двух флотов, а только потом уже курорт. Но главной причиной, поддерживающей эту вот «самость» является, на мой взгляд, особое отношение к Севастополю местных. Здесь практически все совершенно искренне его уважают и гордятся им. Надо сказать, что обычно я не разделяю абстрактных популистских и псевдопатриотических понятий типа «гордость за нацию» и т.п., но севастопольцам, как мне кажется, всё-таки есть чем гордиться.

Нахимов Пал Степаныч.
Нахимов.

В подтверждение вышесказанному следует добавить, что в Севастополе есть несметное количество музеев и памятников, посвященным разным деятелям и событиям, связанным с историей города. При чем это и старые, всем известные места, такие как панорама, диорама, музей на Малаховом кургане и прочия, и новые, недавно открытые музеи в Михайловском равелине и на 35-й батарее. Про последнее обязательно будет отдельный пост, сейчас скажу только, что это весьма глобальное сооружение, соизмеримое с киевским музеем ВОВ и, что интересно, абсолютно бесплатными экскурсиями.

Михайловский равелин.
Михайловский равелин.

Но музеи — это далеко не всё, что стоит посмотреть. Как уже говорилось, в Севастополе базируется военно-морской флот, что тоже заслуживает особого внимания. Посмотреть его можно сверху, из сквера над Южной бухтой, в которой находится большая часть кораблей. А если есть желание ознакомиться с ними детальнее, можно прокатиться на экскурсионном катерке, коих предостаточно на центральной набережной.

Корабли ЧФ РФ.
Корабли ЧФ РФ.

С подлодками не всё так хорошо…
Подводные лодки бывают и такими.

Высшее руководство командного состава сайта Крымонавт особо рекомендует для этих целей катер «West» под началом капитана Андрея.

Победоносное судно West.
Венценосный катер West.

Так же известно, что в Севастополе находится Херсонес – самый известный и лучше всех сохранившийся в Крыму греческий город. Место это просто замечательное, так что побывать там совершенно необходимо. Про Херсонес тут обязательно будет отдельная статья, я гарантирую это.

Херсонесские места.
Херсонес.

Кроме того, бывает весьма приятно просто походить по маленьким холмистым уличкам в центрах. Благо, там хватает и самобытных красивых домов, и уютных фотогеничных двориков.

Севастопольские улички.
Севастопольские улички.

А если надоело шататься по самому Севастополю, стоит прогуляться по окрестностям. В 20-ти минутах езды от города находятся Балаклава и Фиолент, где тоже есть на что посмотреть. В Балаклаву ходит маршрутка от 5-го километра, большой транспортной развязки, а на Фиолент можно уехать от ЦУМа. А вообще, эти прогулки неплохо бы и объединить. К примеру, с Яшмового пляжа на Фиоленте ходит кораблик до Балаклавы, а обратный маршрут можно пройти пешком, устроив эдакий трёхчасовой мини-поход вдоль обрыва через заброшенную часть ПВО, но это для любителей.

Мыс Фиолент.
Фиолент.

Мне неоднократно доводилось слышать, что в Севастополе, мол, плохо потому как там пляжей почти нет. Это, уважаемые, совершенно безосновательное утверждение, ибо этих самых пляжей там хоть жопой ешь вдоволь. Почти в каждой из бухт Севастополя и на мысах, их образующих, есть свой пляжик, а бухт там немало. Стоит, правда, сказать, что в некоторых, а именно в Круглой (она же Омега) и Песочной вода «не очень чистая», зато с остальными всё в порядке. Но, как по мне, самые лучшие пляжи есть на обоих Херсонесах — музее и мысе, а так же возле уже упомянутой 35-й батареи.

Пляж возле 35-й батареи.
Пляж возле 35-й батареи.

Правда находятся они относительно далеко от цента (полчаса на маршрутке). Если же «так долго» ехать лень, то можно пройтись на пляж Карантинной бухты, известной в народе как БТК, там тоже довольно неплохо.

Закат над Херсонесом. Вид с БТК.
Закат над БТК.

А еще, в отличии от ЮБК с исключительно галечными пляжами или западного Крыма с песочным дном, Севастополь, и это еще одна его особенность, предоставляет выбор, потому что тут есть и то, и другое! На всех пляжах, о которых я сказал выше, — галька, но ведь есть еще и Северная Сторона, а там уже смешанные пляжи, чем дальше от Севастопольской бухты, тем больше песка. Самым быстрым, удобным и, что главное, приятным способом перебраться на Северную является маршрутный теплоход. И это еще одно отличие от ЮБК. Там подобные кораблики катают народ, например, из Ялты в Ласточкино Гнездо гривен эдак за 60. В Севастополе же билет на сей «экзотический» транспорт стоит аж 3(!) гривны, как маршрутка. Кстати, городские маршрутки тут тоже необычные. Во-первых, платят в них на выходе, а во-вторых, что самое интересное, почти все они ходят круглосуточно! Так что, если случилось загулять до ночи, можно спокойно доехать куда надо не раскошеливаясь на такси, которые здесь… не самые лучшие.

Маршрутный корабль.
Маршрутный корабль.

Как я и говорил, рассказывать про Севастополь можно бесконечно, однако на сим пока остановлюсь. Дальше будет еще много связанных с ним статей, благо интересностей тут хватает.

Больше фотокарточек в галерее.

Рубрика: Города. Метки: . Вы можете добавить постоянную ссылку в закладки.

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